Design

The shrinking Aviator case is made from two cases dissected to yield three portions, then modified to telescope together (Figures 1 through 3). The bottom and center sections must be a quarter of an inch longer than one-third die length of the case: the width, in fact, of the miniature case vou will use. Therefore vou will need to cut the center section from the

second case. 1 lie top section is shorter than the others. Use the three-striped design of the Aviator case as natural camouflage for the section edges.

Next, carcfiilly open the center and top sections at their glued seams, recrease the corner folds and glue the seams together again to expand the sections—just enough to allow

the ccntcr section to slip closcly over the bottom one, and the top section down over the center one.

To prevent the three sections from falling apart as you handle them in performance, they are strung together with eight lengths of white cotton sewing thread, which arc glued to the inside of the case as shown in Figure 4. With these threads installed, the case, in extended condition, should comfortably hold a deck of cards, just as would a normal case.

The finishing touch is to dccorate the back of the case (that side to which the top flap is attached) to look like a miniature Aviator case. If you can find a factory -printed miniature Aviator deck and case, you can cut the front panel and top flap from it. Otherwise, you will need to have reduced color-photo-copies made of a normal Aviator case. Have die photocopies done on thin white cardstock, similar to that used to manufacture the card case.

Turn the back of the telescoping case up and glue the front of the miniature case to the top section, letting the right side of the miniature panel project past the cut edge of this section (Figure 5). Then glue (he flap of the miniature case to the side of the top section (Figure 6). When the normal-sized case is collapsed, the end of the bottom section should rest even with the right side of the miniature overlay.

That is it. While the section divisions have been exaggerated for clarity in the illustrations, under normal light the joints, thanks to the Aviator case design, are well hidden.

The working of the case will be fairly obvious. You bring out the deck inside the case, then remove the cards. As attention goes naturally to the deck, you drop the hand holding the case down around waist level, out of the frame of attention; dien extend your iourth finger and with it push on the bottom of the case, collapsing it, your thumb assisting as necessary. This done, you raise your hand, simultaneously flipping over the ease on your fingers to bring the miniature side into view.

As Peter Kane wisely cautioned when he described his shrinking card-case in print, this is not a full-blown effect, but rather a 'throw-away", an ancillarv effect, meant to be set

beside more substantial tricks, adding a curious little surprise to the general procedure of your act. So, as you bring the shrunken case into view, make some short, amusing remark to draw attention to the change in size. (My presentation is to take the deck from the case as I say, 'Til do a small card trick lor you." Then, when I display the shrunken case 1 comment, "A mjsmall card trick]") Once the effect has registered, pocket the case without further commcnt and begin your card trick.

This shrinking card-case offers one feature I can't recall seeing in any other: You can replace die deck into the miniature case and have it expand again to normal size. I use it in this way, but it will probably surprise most readers when I reveal that I don't do ir as a trick. 1 feel that the illusion of making the case grow would not be sufficiendy convincing. Instead, after my last card trick, during the applause and relaxation diat occurs at such times, I bring the collapsed case from my pocket, partially obscuring it behind my fingers, so that only the upper portion of die case is visible. I immediately insert the deck, letting the case expand to normal size. This done, I close the flap and put the cased deck away. No attention is given these actions at all, and if anyone is watching closcly, it appears as if I have merely slipped the deck into a normal case. Following a scries of strong card effects, the spectators are thinking of other things and consequendy they don't consider the fact that the case was previously shrunk. Your actions are incidental at this point, and don't call for analysis. You are now reset for the next performance.

The case does take a bit of time to construct, but it will hold up through a fair number of performances before wearing out. However, when you use it constandy, wear out it does. Consequently, if you don t wish to rebuild the case periodically, or if you don't use Aviator cards or another brand with a similar case pattern, you will be interested in the second design I devised several years after coming up with this first one.

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