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Figure 104.
Figure 106.

It is my sincere hope that the description suffices for you. I have attempted to include more pictures than in conventional books on the subject since I feel first that they are incredibly valuable, second, that I have the advantage of being able to do so since this is an ebook and not an actual printing and third, in order to supplement what can often be difficult descriptions. With some measure of luck, my attempts will have succeeded for you today.

Circulation Shuffle

In order to protect Lennart Green's method and ideas I will not give you an explanation of the circulation shuffle, but rather refer you to his DVDs "Classic Green Part 1" and "Shuffling Green". This shuffle best mimics a Hindu shuffle and I refer to it constantly when I wish a blind Hindu shuffle. Mind you, I tend to use a pick-up shuffle, circulation shuffle, or cancellation shuffle, as I will describe shortly, depending on the need. It is really a brilliant shuffle and you can employ it in an overhand fashion as Mr. Green mentions though I personally do not find it to be practical or effective in this manner and favor instead mirror shuffles when dealing with overhand shuffling. The basic concept of the shuffle is to continuously bring the top of the deck back to the top and drop more of the bottom to the bottom as you progress along. If you are able to create your own method from this description then bravo for you, otherwise, I refer you to Mr. Green's teaching on the subject, as it is certainly a shuffle I would recommend.

I apologize to those who are disappointed at my lack of detail on this subject but I prefer to maintain my integrity by not profiting off the originality of others by teaching material that is unique to them.

Cancellation Shuffle (Mirror Hindu Shuffle, Jog shuffling)

Of all the blind Hindu shuffles, this is the only one that can be performed onto a table and it is arguably less than the most difficult to detect, but I nevertheless have a certain appreciation and attachment to it. As with a mirror shuffle (for it employs the mirror shuffle concept), you must execute two shuffles in order for the shuffle to be blind as the one shuffle effectively cancels the previous shuffle out.

The basic aspect of the shuffle begins fairly simply, that is to say, it is exactly the same as a conventional Hindu shuffle with one exception. Each time you go to add another packet to the left hand, you jog a card at the top of the previous packet. (See figure 107.)

Figure 107.

You will now be able to return and know exactly where to grab packets in the future in order to reverse the process of shuffling. The entire deck is cycled this way so that by the end it should leave you with a series of jogs throughout the deck. (See figure 108.)

Figure 108.

It is possible to use the same method when shuffling onto a table. (In both cases refer to the earlier comments on how to create jogs using a Hindu shuffle). Naturally, you will want to shuffle and jog the cards in the manner that offers the best angles. For example, in this case if shuffling into the hands I tend not to direct the face of the packet at their eyes, but rather direct the front of the deck at their eyes so they are unlikely to see a small jog at the back of the deck.

The next stage is critical and the phase I wish, you to best understand for I am quite pleased with the method. You will begin by making the deck square with the exception of the jogs, which you should minimize (you will need to play around with what size jog works best for you, for me it is perhaps a quarter inch or so). Now grip the deck in preparation for a Hindu shuffle, but be sure you are gripping the deck at the very end near the jogs, this is extremely important! (See figure 109.)

Figure 109.

Now as the left hand reaches for the first packet your right thumb will apply a downward force on the end of the first out jogged card. This will cause the card to buckle up and create a natural break at the front where the left hand can grab. (See figure 110.)

Figure 110.

The left middle finger and thumb will now grab the top packet and jogged card drawing them forward. However, as soon as the jogged card is flush with the rest of the deck you will release it and simply withdraw the top packet. The reason for initially grabbing the jogged card and drawing it forward is so that you leave no indication that any such jog ever existed and avoid risking discovery. (See figure 111.)

Figure 111.

Having completed the previous action, you will again apply a downward force with your right thumb as before on the next out jogged card and repeat the previous process. You will repeat this action until you have added all the packets in standard Hindu shuffle fashion to the left hand and thereby completed the shuffle.

I think I will end my comments on Hindu shuffling here after a few quick notes. When I was working on the cancellation shuffle, I originally used an undercut and then stripped out the jogged cards and returned them to the bottom. Therefore, if you have an interest in improving the method, you may be able to discover some shred of insight in the idea of using undercuts to create the jogs rather than the traditional jog, though for myself I find the current method to be preferable.

With that in mind I will continue on to what most are likely considerably more interested in, that is to say, weave shuffling, which will form the primary basis for shuffling and stacking techniques in this volume.

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