Dealing Bottoms Onehanded

Generally, I don't consider dealing bottoms one-handed terribly practical, again, it's one of those things you learn more out of masochistic interest than any really practical value. Then again, if your livelihood depended on it and you had a broken hand, bottom dealing with just one hand could be important to you, so for all those hustlers with a broken hand, or maybe just one hand, we now address the one-handed bottom deal.

Throw Bottoms

You're invited to consult the earlier discussion points on throw dealing, particularly throw seconds at this point in order to refresh yourself on the methodology as I'll not cover the basics again. Instead, I shall devote my time to describing the process by which you will deal off the bottom card. Here again, I invite you to consult push-off bottom dealing method two in order to properly appreciate what is to follow. In reality, this deal is almost exclusively a combination of those two sources. When I first started performing this deal (which I should mention I owe almost entirely to Marlo), I positioned my fingers much lower, around the lower edge of the deck on the right side. From here, it is much easier to gain access to the cards and more importantly, to project them from the deck. However, I found finger flare and knuckle flash were a huge concern I was unable to avoid or even effectively alleviate. Honestly, they remains a concern, but you'll notice based on earlier descriptions that a sort of misdirection is employed in order to decrease the significance of the finger flare, and the method of producing the card minimizes the knuckle flash to an acceptable level. (Again, for those interested, consult Guy Hollingworth's deal as it offers one-handed bottom dealing possibilities void of knuckle flash.)

You begin then by holding the deck as usual between the forefinger in the upper right corner and the base of the thumb in the lower left, with the last three fingers along the right side of the deck. This is really sort of a high master's grip and as I have mentioned before, a master's grip will probably suffice for those interested. Now, we shall assume you've been dealing a couple cards and are now about to deal a bottom. On the pullback motion of the previous deal, buckle the bottom card with your last three fingers as per the procedure outlined in push-off bottom dealing method two. Then, as you stop the motion, push the very edge of the bottom card out over the lower right edge of the deck, so the first joint from the tip of the finger on the last three fingers is below the edge of the now loose bottom card. It is important at this point to tighten your finger position on the edge of the deck, effectively squaring the top cards, but also, as usual, conveniently placing the tips of the fingers in the way of any cards you may choose to deal in the future. As I mentioned before, this gives you an excuse to open the fingers in the dealing action and thereby perform the false deal. This entire action, when performed correctly is virtually invisible, but when covered with motion as described should offer you no trouble at all.

From here, it is simply a simple matter of performing the dealing action of the throw deal and forcing out the bottom card via a sudden "kick" from the joints and extension of the last three fingers of the hand. Naturally, this process is timed as per a regular throw deal and thus elicits the same level of deception.

Spin Bottoms

Again, I am very fond of spin dealing and though the bottom deal is slightly more difficult than the second deal, my affection for it remains the same. The beauty of spin bottoms is that while there is noticeable finger and knuckle action, there is no unnatural finger or knuckle action, since a regular spin deal involves shifting the fingers appropriately. You should review the basic spin deal at this point and practice until you're proficient with it. Again, you're using a high master's grip with an angled push-off.

The key, as usual lies in getting the bottom card out, though granted there is also a certain level of proficiency in performing the "spin" move. You must start by ensuring you first joint from the tip of your middle finger is below the edge of the cards as this will become your grip point. Now, by applying pressure downwards, towards the base of the deck with the middle finger, you'll buckle the card. In other words, you'll simply apply pressure to the bottom card and then slide the finger down the edge (down meaning from the front of the deck towards the back). (See figure 578 for a view from the bottom.)

Figure 578.

Now, as you move your middle finger out into it's position between the angled top card and the edge of the deck, you push the bottom card out. To try and make this a little more clear for you, normally you push off the top card at an angle leaving a sort of "V" shaped gap between the upper right corner of the card and the upper right corner of the deck. You then insert your middle finger into this gap in order to create a pivot point for the spin action. Well it is in that action of moving your middle finger up into this gap that you push the card out slightly. Then, your ring finger, which normally moves down and applies pressure on the bottom of the top card, instead moves down and pushes the bottom card into position. Essentially, you position the bottom card around the middle finger just as you normally position the top card. (See figure 579 and figure 580 for an exposed view without the top card.)

Figure 579.

From here, you perform the spin action sail as you would a typical spin deal except with the bottom card, while, of course, pulling back the top card in the process. You'll find this is somewhat more difficult, and you'll need to watch that the card doesn't get caught on its lower left edge at the base of the thumb where there tends to be a great deal of pressure. I suggest you simply sit and practice performing the spin action of the bottom card on its own prior to really working extensively with the deal.

You'll also need to watch the front edge of the deck while performing the push out of the bottom card, that the upper left corner doesn't protrude beyond the front edge. This tends to occur if the deck slips backwards in your hand or if you end up twisting the card rather than pivoting it on the base of the thumb, as you should.

Stud Bottoms

I was practicing and experimenting to ensure I got the correct description for this method the other day and I must admit, I questioned my sanity when I noticed that my one-handed stud bottom deal was actually really good. This has to be one of the most difficult deals by far, not technically of course, but for the simple reason that you're going to turn your hand over, exposing the bottom of the deck and at the same time drop the bottom card as though it were the top card. For those among you who fail to realize the problem here, basically when you're looking at the bottom of the deck it's easy to see a card come off the bottom of the deck and if you see a card come off the bottom then obviously it isn't coming off the top. See, at least when dealing centers, or seconds, or even Greeks, there is the advantage of having some other cards covering the bottom card and thus creating the illusion that it may have in fact come from the bottom. There is no doubt then that this deal must be graceful, fluid, and hopefully nonchalant as there is an obvious discrepancy for those paying close attention.

This is the throw deal, minus the throw, with the stud dealing taught under stud seconds. You buckle the card with the last three fingers of your left hand and push it out slightly as you push off the top card to the right. Then, in the action of turning your hand over you pull back the top card and release the bottom card. (You may refer to the earlier directions for timing and more precise methodology.) It helps, to push the bottom card out as far as possible in the case so there's a shorter period when one might observe it coming from "above" the deck instead of the top of the deck where it should.

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