Spread through the face-up deck, upjogging all the black spot cards from six to ten in value and downjogging all the red spot cards from six to ten in value. Strip out the black cards and drop them on the table, then strip out the red cards and drop them beside the blacks. Place the rest of the deck aside; you won't need it again.
Pick up the red packet. Hold it face up in dealing grip and count the ten cards aloud, stud-style, into a facedown pile at the far end of the table. Pick up the black packet. Hold it face up in dealing grip and count it the same way into a facedown pile directly in front of you.
Pick up the red pile and spread the facedown cards between your hands as you make some comment about them. Square the cards into left-hand dealing grip. In the process, obtain a fourth-finger break under the top three cards.
Turn your left hand palm down and pick up the tabled black packet. Turn your left hand palm up and immediately pick up all the cards above the break in your right hand in Biddle grip. The second, third, and fourth fingers should completely cover the front of the packet to hide the thickness. Place the remaining left-hand cards face down on the table.
You will now perform a Hamman count to count these thirteen cards as ten and conceal the three reversed cards. The switch of packets should come on the count of six. The last card you count will actually be a double. (The Hamman count, done exactly this way, is taught in The Color of Money.) The value of this count is that, immediately after adding cards to the packet, you show that nothing has changed.
You now turn to a spectator on your left and explain to him that you want him to count the cards himself to be certain. Explain that you want him to use the same count employed by casinos when checking their decks at the end of a shift, as it is the most error proof. By way of illustration, you count the first three cards yourself. As you count "one," take the face card of the packet in your right hand. Turn it face down stud-style and slip it under the packet. Repeat this with the next two cards as you count "two" and "three."
Ask the spectator whether he is right- or left-handed. Whatever he says, ask him to hold out the other hand palm up. Take the packet in your right hand in Biddle grip and place it in the spectator's hand as you remind him that you stopped the count at three.
Pick up the red packet and take it face up in your left hand in dealing position. Turn to a spectator on your left and explain that you want her to count the red cards in the same manner. Count the first three cards as before as you explain that you want to get her caught up with the other spectator. In this case, however, slightly in jog the first card you count. At the end of the count, press down on the injogged card with your right thumb so you can obtain a left fourth-finger break above the three reversed cards.
Ask her whether she is right- or left-handed. Have her hold out, palm up, the hand opposite to the one she names. As she does so, perform a half-pass of the three cards under the break. (Here you're exploiting a simple but reliable source of misdirection I often use. Whenever you give a spectator a direction, no matter how simple, the rest of the audience will look at the person to see whether they carry it out correctly. That's your cover for the half-pass.)
Place the face-up packet in the spectator's hand. Guide the two spectators in unison through the count-and-duck procedure, starting, of course, on the count of four. They will both arrive at a total of ten. The spectator on the left has only seven, but she has recounted the same three cards you counted. The spectator on the right has thirteen, but he has completely missed the three red cards because they were already reversed. They will be on top of his packet at the end of his count.
As soon as they've finished their counts, have the spectators hold their packets between their palms. Go through the motions of invisibly transferring three cards from the red packet to the black packet. Turn to the spectator on your left and ask her how many cards she had previously counted in her packet. She will, of course, say ten. Have her count her cards in a facedown pile on the table. She will have only seven cards. As if to verify the count, pick up the packet and rapidly count it stud-style in a face-up row direcdy in front of you.
Turn to the other spectator and ask him how many cards he had previously counted. Naturally, he too will answer ten. Have him count his cards in a pile on the table. He will now have thirteen.
Pick up his packet and verify the count by rapidly dealing the cards stud-style in a face-up row above the row of red cards. However, you deal a bottom on the third, seventh, and eleventh cards. (I use the Jennings stud bottom deal, taught in God of Gamblers.) This is very easy since you're working with only a small packet. Furthermore, there i6 no heat on the deal since the spectator has already established that there are thirteen cards. Your count is only verifying what the audience already believes.
The spectator's count reversed the order of the cards, bringing the three red cards to the bottom. Therefore, each of the three cards you bottom deal will be a red card. The false deals serve to distribute the reds among the blacks.
Not only have three red cards traveled from one packet to the other, they have ended up buried in three different parts of the black packet. This provides an added element of impossibility to the effect and an added layer of protection to the method.
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