Resetting the Stack

When one or more cards have been used in a trick and vou want to m return them to their stack positions, there are several procedural possibilities. But before we discuss them. I should mention that I often let a few cards drop to the table during a shuffle, and then reset them with the following techniques.

A. Resetting One Card

Drop the top or bottom card to the table, as if by accident, and then pick it up and bury it in the center of the deck. I his looks very fair and casual. All you have todo to get the card back into place is to catch a break above it when you insert it into the deck, cut at the break and complete the cut, obtaining a new break between the two packets. ( ut at the break again, doing a slip cut to the table, and complete the cut. That is. with your right hand, cut the top packet to the right while vour left thumb retains the top card in place, drawing it onto the lowei half (I ig, 18) This brings the card back to its stack position and restores the order of the pack. If you drop the bottom card instead of the top one, it will end up on top, but the stack retains its cyclical order.

The lamari/ perpendicular control (IPC) and the Hofzinser spread cull an» also ideal tools for repositioning one or more cards that have been dropped from the bottom, l or these sleights and other useful one>, see Appendix VI (pp. 356-363).

ul^v two cards are dropped and then buried at different spots in »deck—with the original top card above the secondHust catch two hlks one with the ring finger and one with the little finger, above the Z pertinent cards. Cut at the little-finger break and transfer the bottom Ltion to the top. During this action, transfer the ring finger's break temporarily to the right thumb. As the cut is completed, let the left little finger take over this break while the left ring finger establishes a new one at the point of the cut. Do a slip cut, carrying the portion above the ring finger's break to the table (Fig. 19). Cut at the little finger's break and catch a new break between packets as you complete the cut. Do a second slip cut and place the upper portion onto the tabled pile. Finish by dropping the packet remaining in your hands onto the rest. Even though you have performed several genuine cuts, which give the impression of disordering the cards, everything is back in place.

C. Resetting a Group of Cards

Remove the top ten or twelve cards of the deck and fan them in your right hand. With your left thumb at the outer left comer of the deck, lift about half of the cards, creating a gap into which you insert the right hand's fan, closing it at the same time. Push it into the deck at an angle, so that its inner right comer protrudes from the right side of the deck. Immediately form two breaks around the angled packet, the left ring finger holding one above it and the left little finger one below (fig. 20, in which the right hand is omitted to expose the situation).

After a pause, the three packets are cut to the table, one at a time, laying cii onto the previous one. The bottom section of the deck ends up on it aon! uCyChC °rder of lhe mnemonic stack remains intact. Though tion rfT a! Cafds have r®*her thoroughly mixed, the condi-which * U * a«er reiving a simple cut,

D. Resetting the Stack After a Spectator's Riffle Shuffi e

We come now to some advanced mnemonic-stack technique,, Imagm,

IZZSZliUfflCS lhC - have the accom-

whole deck stacked.

We have already discussed methods of undoing the shuffle usin« such tools as the Green angle separation and Hofeinser spread cull (sec- 2d on p. 271). But here I'D propose a simple method I developed to plish the same result.

After you have divided the deck exactly in half, under the K4 (26), a spectator is asked to give the cards a riffle shuffle. Shortly after this, you force, say, the 64 (6) and have it returned anywhere in the deck. The spectator squares the cards and gives them a complete cut. You now spread the cards in your hands, faces toward yourself, and cut the 9* (52) or the K4 (26) to the face. As you quickly run through the deck, upjog the twenty-six cards of the first half of the stack, including the 64, which is out of place. The remaining twenty-five cards will be in order (see Fig. 21, in which some of the upjogged cards are obscured behind others). Gather these twenty-six cards, disengaging them from the fanned lower half as you sweep them into a roughlv squared packet and say, "One of these must be your curd. Ul's see, hmmnu. m Set the lower half of the deck face down on the table and refan the upper half. Then, as if you are uncertain, upjog five or >ix cards, including the 6* (Fig. 22). Look into the eyes of the spectator and have him concentrate on the card he took. After an apparent mistake, which you promptly rectify, dramatically takeout the 6* and toss it to the table. 77m/ > the curd you urn thinking of." Push the upjogged cards flush with the fan,slip the back to its position in the stack and reassemble the stacked deck.

Done briskly, it's a rapid and dramatic divination that should take less than two minutes to perform and which may be followed by other mnemonic miracles, all enhanced in their magical value by the fact that the spectator shuffled the cards just minutes earlier. Obviously, the force must be a very convincing one, either a classic force or a misleading and clever method, chosen from the many that exist in our literature/

Here is a variation on this procedure. Split the deck exactly in half, cutting under the Kf and then divide each half in half, cutting under the q* (13) and the A4 (39), respectively. Have someone riffle shuffle the two portions of the each half together. You then do a false riffle shuffle with the two resulting halves of the deck. This shuffle must deliver the upper half of the stack on top of the lower half/ The cards to be upjogged are those from 14 to 39 of the stack, which are then left aside on the table. Give the other portion a complete cut (between Cards 40 and 13) and drop this half onto the tabled one. This reassembles the stack in an order identical to that which would result if the deck had been given one complete cut under the A4. If you run through the procedure with a stacked deck you 11 more clearly see what happens. A second variation consists of having a card freely selected from the first half of the stack- Have the card returned anywhere (the whole process is dear, clean and direct) and continue as per the original version. The selection will be the only card out of place among the portion consisting of Cards 1 to 26.

Resetting the stack after two riffle shuffles is also possible. All you need do is cut the deck (which is stacked from 1 to 52) exactly in half (between Cards 26 and 27). Have the deck riffle shuffled twice. Now use the Green angle separation or Hofeinser spread cull to separate the top half (Cards 1 to26) trom the bottom half (27 to 52). Next separate Cards 27 to 39 of the

* * Cards 1 through 13 in the other Cut the 4* to the

£ tte stack is restored to its natural order. Try it out v S r ^ FvnR£ Stack Aftek a Spectator's Overhand Shuffle hlrd!, M ^ ycars aS°'1 couldn't believe it myself- It's

*** 11 b to recover the stack after an overhand

** (Encyd°t*d» <t Forcing) in Spanish. Studies on the sub-

•1® t & m> **** ***** lUnS HoIler m ako eisential fBadin^

pp. 161 and ¡LtS?" <k5Cnbtd Effuse (The Expert at the Card TabU f-mrr M^ 119»; ^ Magic of the Hands [ 19371 p. 21),

^^* kmg* thl * 'Z** ^y <*her authors A real shuffle may * Ar oanp^ ^X^1 to^v squared, so that thev can later be d***

* "^o- * the -cascade shuffle- I described in Scnaia

Mnemonic a / 2x1

I Ah m 7 7U,r,-m'f18 ^e spectator doc. only one over-hand shuffle, though ,t may be as thorough, as he likes. In other word, some cards may have been run singly, then a small pack,, dr,wn off'

then a few more single cards, another packet, more single cards, .„ul Jo on, until the deck is exhausted.

Please actually work through this description with a stacked deck The easiest way to follow this sequence is to stack the deck by suits, each from Ace to King, with the hearts on top, followed by the spades! clubs and then diamonds. Thus the AV , on top card and ft, y%

on the bottom. Shuffle the cards yourself, overhand fashion, running through the deck once. Now, holding the deck with the faces toward you, use your left thumb to spread over a few cards from the face, and look for the top card of the stack (A*). Transfer that card along with those in front of it to the right hand. Note the card on the face of that group. Let's say it's the 3* (Fig. 23). Look for the next card of the original stack, in this case the 4* Transfer that card along with the ones in front of it onto the cards the right hand already holds. Look at the face card of that group; let's say it's the A* (Fig. 24). Find the next card (the 24) in the left hand's spread and transfer that card and those in front of it onto the right hand's packet (Fig. 25), and so on, all the way through the deck. The whole deck is now in order/

Under the pretense of looking for the card you're attempt to divine, the whole operation will go unsuspected-

*Q«a»iomily the group of card» to be from thr kA hard to cJZ of S« SlKL - card, — - individually dun»« .Mfc

Uthouah vou could shuffle the cards, giving an impression of a real Ime ttia't is impossible to undo, it's even more effective if the spectator is the one who does the mixing. In that case you have him shuffle the cmis ind when you see he's about to finish running through them once, hold' out your hand and say, with a tone of authority and haste, "Leave the deck on the tabic and hold this coin in your hands. It's my payment for your shuffling duties." With that you accomplish two things: You stop the shuffle before it's too late; and later, by simply pointing to the coin, you are able to remind everyone that the cards were shuffled by the spectator.

f. Resetting the Stack after a Riffle Shuffle Followed by an Overhand Shuffle

1 know this sounds incredible, but it's true. Start by reversing the order of the stack, leaving them in 52 to 1 order. Cut the deck exactly in half (below the 2*) and have the halves riffle shuffled together. Then instruct the spectator to give the cards an overhand shuffle, limiting this to one run-through, as explained above. Here, again, you may shuffle the deck vourself, but do so very clearly and thoroughly. Take the deck face up and separate the cards of the top half of the stack (1 to 26) from those of the second half (27 to 52), assorting once more to the Green angle separation or Lorayne's great divide. (A spread cull can also be used, in which case you needn't reverse the order of the stack in the beginning. See Appendix VI for these culls, pp. 356-363.) Conclude by dropping the cards from 1 to 26 on top of the rest. Keep in mind that the cards of each group will not appear in order.

Take the deck again with the faces toward yourself and perform the operations described above for resetting the stack after an overhand shuffle-and the entire stack is reassembled. The impression given by the different back-to-back shuffles is completely disarming, as one of the cleverest minds in magic today can confirm.'«

I hough not so practical, I'll point out for the sake of completeness, that

" *also P<>ssible reset the stack after two consecutive riffle shuffles followed by an overhand shuffle. You'll need to do two angle separations or two spread culls, and then reset the overhand shuffle. In this case.(is not necessary to reverse the stack at the outset.

G. Resetting the Half Stack

Using a half stack, one can obtain even more deceptive results. First > must split the deck in half, one packet being stacked and the other it an ' UnsUcked half to a spectator and instruct him to give

WhUe yOU <Waren.lv do the same. However,

«d*^^ ^ irKrCdibl° Perei Di^onis, of whom we in the magic bro.h-

your shuffle is false. Now split your half precisely it the „„, , have another spectator riffle the two portion ^ ° and

Meanwhile, prompt the other spectator to give his «„stacked half a riffle shuffle as we Then have one of the spectators shuffle both halves"

the deck together, rhe number and variety of the shuffles made here by the spectators is extremely convincing.

All you need do to restore your half stack is to upjog the slacked cards pull them free and set the rest aside. Run through the stacked half' upjogging the top thirteen cards of the stack, strip ihem out and reas-semble the half stack. Needless to say, this upjogging and separation procedure is done openly under the pretense of looking for a card that you've previously forced.'

h. Resetting the Stack After Dealing Several Hands of Poki k or Another Card Game

The General Rule of Setup

This is a resetting procedure I devised to operate with any number of players and any number of cards per hand. All dealing sequences are done by dealing one card at a time in clockwise rotation.

In general, after dealing;/ hands of w cards, all face down (Fig. 26 shows four hands of five cards each), the last hand is picked up and laid onto the previous one, and so on. Now deal m hands of n cards (Fig. 27 shows five hands of four cards each) and gather the cards in the same way.

The interesting point here is that the first and second dealing sequences may be done either face up or face down, in any combination, and the procedure never changes: The last hand is laid onto the previous one and so on, bringing the cards back to their initial order. Mind you, when I say that you can deal face up, I mean that you hold the packet face up and deal normally from the face, without turning cards over.

You may also deal the cards stud fashion, turning up each card a> a , dealt, as long as you do so in both dealing sequences. Gather the hands as described above. ' A wonderful application for this idea is TNT." (p. 223)

, nn>fer to think of the general rule in this way: Deal in the normal fash-^¡n both times or deal stud fashion both times, and always pick up lhe hinds in the direction opposite the deal. If you care for more details:

H vou gather the hands in the same order you dealt them, they will end up in reverse order, from last to first.

You may also deal the cards stud fashion for the first round of hands, and normally for the second round. To reset them, on gathering the hands in both rounds, lay the first hand onto the second, then both onto the third, and so on. Interestingly, you will get the same result if you deal the cards with the packet held face up or face down on either or both deals, picking up the hands in the same direction each time.

Note i

If you deal the cards without turning them over, in either sequence, and then turn the hands face up on the table in either sequence, turn them face down again before gathering them. If you do not, the order will be disrupted.

If for some important reason you don't want to turn the hands down again before picking them up (I hope this never happens, so that your memor\ remains unconfused), then you should lay the first hand onto the second, etc. And, after turning everything face-down and dealing again, without turning the hands face up, lay the last hand onto the previous one and so on. In other words, pick up clockwise on the first round and counterclockwise on the second (assuming you dealt clockwise on both rounds).

Note II

(1 suggest you skip this note or at least forget about it, to keep things simple.)

You may on the first round of hands deal the cards with the packet held either face down or face up, and you may either turn the hands over on the table or leave them as they are. On the second round of hands, deal the cards stud style. Under these circumstances, if you don't turn over Jhe hrst round of hands on the table, gather them counterclockwise Mh times; and if you do turn the hands over the first time, gather them clockwise on the first round and counterclockwise on the second. Noth-mg new here. What is new is that, in both instances, the initial order

* .Cards ends UP ^versed. To avoid mental confusion, though, 1 ^nglysuggest you reread the general rule and forget the rest. (The > problem is that I suppose you know my usual warning: Don't pay any attention to Little Tamariz's advice.) S I M

Mnemonic a / 285

note in

By the way, I already mentioned in Thouehi-of r, r 4 • d «

ru e g,ven above, as well as an idea of Simpson's on which th nc is based: hat a packet containing „ eards-twentv,ou, for ov.npt-recovers its mitia order through a deal of six piles of four cards ,ldl followed by another dea of four piles of six cards each; or through i triple dealing sequence of two packets first, followed by a deal of three packets and finally another deal of four packets (because 24 = 6 x -i and also 24 = 2 x 3 x 4). The full arrangement would also return to its original order if a two-packet deal is followed by a twelve-packet deal (24 = 2 x 12), or a two-packet deal followed by a six-packet deal and another two-packet deal (24 = 2 x 6 x 2), or one deal of three packets and one of eight (24 = 3 x 8) or any other such combination Be aware that if you deal three times, or five, or any odd number, without turning the cards over as they are dealt, the resulting order will be the in\ erve of the starting order. In general, if the factors whose multiplication is n are />, (/, r, s..., all you need do is deal sequences that include /'. qt r, > packets to restore the original order. And, ot course, the order ;>.r s are dealt doesn't alter the final result. In other words, it makes no difference if you deal three, two and four packets; or four, three and two; or two, four and three. This knowledge (resetting through a factorial deal), applied to the antifaro theory, promises to be productive. So be it.

The Illustrated Key To The Tarot

The Illustrated Key To The Tarot

The pathology of the poet says that the undevout astronomer is mad the pathology of the very plain man says that the genius is mad and between these extremes, which stand for ten thousand analogous excesses, the sovereign reason takes the part of a moderator and does what it can. I do not think that there is a pathology of the occult dedications, but about their extravagances no one can question, and it is not less difficult than thankless to act as a moderator regarding them.

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