** Refer to Leftovers for important information starting in year #11.
This is Gary's first appearance in The Trapdoor but you will recognize him from his many other contributions to pasteboard packers. This is a smooth, easy, and convincing way of forcing a card from the middle of the pack.
The Work. Start with the card to be forced on top of the pack. Hold the pack from above in the right hand. Kick cut the top third of the pack into the left hand. Now drop the right hand' s packet on top of the left hand's packet. Do not drop it squarely. Instead, drop the upper packet onto the lower, injogged about 3/4ths of an inch. Then, angle the front edge of the
pack down so that the upper packet slides flush. The friction between the selection and the bottom card of the dropped packet, will cause the bottom card to remain injogged as the rest of the packet slides forward. You have used the drop jog to get a card injogged above the force card.
An alternate method would be to start with the force card on top of the deck. Overhand shuffle by undercutting the bottom two thirds of the pack. Injog the first card and shuffle off. You now have an injogged card above the force card. For either of the methods, use an exagerated injog, about an inch in size.
Lower the pack so that it is held at your left side.
This is your starting position and should be arrived at before the spectators suspect you are ready to start the selection process. (The large injog will be perfectly covered by the handling. If you don' t feel comfortable with it, hang around for an alternative.) When ready for the force, approach a spectator. As you bring your left hand up from your side, your right hand meets it directly in front of you. Your right thumb meets the near edge of the injogged card. As you rotate the deck so that it is level, your first and second fingers slide back the top card or two so that they butt against your thumb. See figure 1.
This action is a reverse wrist turn. The injogged card would be visible if you simply rotated the left wrist up so that the pack was held level. However, by meeting the pack as it moves upward, the fingers pull back the top couple of cards so that they are directly over the injogged card.
Quickly use your right second and third fingers to pull the newly exposed cards near the top flush with the top couple of cards. Continue pulling these cards flush with the injogged cards. You may stop me on any of these cards you wish. Time it so that the spectator stops you before you reach the injogged force card. Also, you would like them to stop you as close to the force card as possible.
When the spectator calls stop, you are in the position shown in figure 2. Pause so that the spectator sees where he stopped you. Lift up on the injogged force card. Push all of the cards above the force card flush against the left forefinger as shown in figure 3. In a continuous action, hinge the right hand's cards (the cards above and including the force card) up and over the front edge of the pack, using the left forefinger as a fulcrum. See figure 4.
Thumb off the top card of the left half onto, but at right angles to the right hand' s c ards. You are using the right half as a tray. Extend the tray to the spectator who called stop so that he or she may removed his freely forced card.
Regurgitations. The action which concludes the force is disarming to say the least. It appears that you have done exactly what you were pretending to do. If you are uncomfortable with the large injog being used, you can use less. However, as Gary points out, you must be able to pick up the injog with your right thumb "on the fly" as you square the cards flush against the left forefinger after the spectator calls stop. Any hesitation in the process will ruin the illusion.
STAINLESS STEAL CUTLERY Richard Street
Richard hails from Hermitage, TN. I met him at this year's Winter Carnival of Magic in Gatlinburg. Scott Robinson brought him over to the booth and introduced us and asked him to demonstrate a series of false cuts he has originated. Five minutes later I had the video camera rollin g. Following the top stock is difficult even for the trained eye. I will describe the basic cut which controls the top stock. Then, I will describe the slight variation which enables you to return the entire deck to its original order.
The Work. Hold the deck face down in the right hand from above between the thumb and second
finger at the short ends. Your right forefinger is curled on top.
Use your forefinger to lift the top third of the pack and jog it diagonally to the left as shown in figure 1. This has the effect of jogging the near left corner of the top third inward. Use the left forefinger of your palm up left hand to "hit" this injogged corner and to peel this third away from the deck proper. As this happens, your left pinky takes possession of the far short edge of this packet away from the right second finger. This straddle grip is shown in figure 2.
Also shown in figure 2 is your left thumb biting off the lower third of the pack. (This open "stealing" of the lower half is why I dubbed it the Stainless Steal
Cut — that, and I couldn't think of anything else.) This third is rotated around with the upper half, around your left second finger as shown in figure 3. Note that your left hand has complete control over the original top half because of the straddle grip. Only the original bottom half is held between the left thumb and the right second finger.
The bottom third is rotated out and around the right second finger into a position shown in figure 4. This figure also shows the point at which the lower third clears the original middle third. As soon as the packets clear, the left thumb rotates the original bottom third up and over the other packet. The original bottom third is allowed to rotate back around toward the magician. The straddle gripped packet
should be kept out of the way during this, the trickiest part of the cut. See figure 5 for the relative positions of the packets as the original bottom packet is rotated back square with the original middle packet.
When the original bottom and middle packets are flush, bring the straddle gripped packet up and over the right edge of the combined packets. Figure 6 shows the audience view of this final part of the cut. Square the pack. The original top stock is now back on top. For this final part, move your right thumb out of the way and allow the straddle gripped packet to "flop" over on top of the deck. Square the pack.
Full Deck Falsie. Once you learn the top stock control, you have to spend another five minutes to learn the full deck version. It is a complete hoax as you are not doing anything. Start as before up until figure 4. That is, the left hand bites off the top and bottom thirds as before. The original top third is straddle gripped and held out of the way. The original bottom third is pivoted out and swung around the right second finger. However, when you get to the position shown in figure 4, do not rotate the original bottom third up over the original center third.
Instead, when you reach figure 4's position, immediately reverse your actions. This pivots the bottom third back underneath the center portion ---back to where it originated. As soon as the two thirds
Stainless Steel Cutlery - Continued on page 817
Stainless Steel Cutlery - Continued on page 817
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