G4

It will simplify re-assembling the cards correctly after use to put a small pencil dot in one corner of Side 1 on each card. Assemble the cards in the above order 1 to 6 and with Side 1 facing you in every case. The packet is then placed in the envelope with Sides 1 facing the flap and Sides 2 facing the address side. Seal the envelope and note that this is important for when it is slit open the cards inside will then be equally well concealed whichever side faces the audience.

Before the members of the audience are asked to choose their numbers the performer is already holding the envelope (and nothing else) in his hand and has already told them that it contains four cards each bearing a number. When their selection has been made he knows which number remains for him and he now has to slit the envelope open and withdraw the four cards which will associate the colour Green with that number. This must be done quickly, cleanly and without any fumbling or peeking in order to convey the impression that only the four cards were in the envelope whereas in fact two cards are to remain therein. The arrangement given and the use of the long cards makes this sure fire and easy to accomplish.

The audience must not know that there are other designs on the reverse sides of the cards and they must therefore be withdrawn from the envelope with the required sides facing the audience. If Green is to be associated with 1 or 2 the flap side must face the audience and the address side must face them if it is to be associated with 3 or 4. If 1 is required the four cards to be withdrawn are the two long centre cards together with the two on the flap side and if 2 is required the two long cards are withdrawn with the two shorts on the address side. If 3 is to be Green the two long cards together with the two shorts on the flap side are required and for 4 the two longs with the two shorts on the address side. It is very simple to remember and any combination can be withdrawn without any fumbling and without looking due to the fact that the arrangement has been designed so that the two centre long calrds are always needed and it is quite easy to bring these out with either the two shorts in front or the two shorts behind, leaving the other two cards in the envelope. There is no reason at all for the audience to handle these cards and whilst they are busy opening their envelopes the cards should be quietly gathered up and slipped into your pocket or close-up case.

If one prefers, as I do, to use larger cards and "court" style envelopes instead of the wage packet type, the two centre cards should be wider than the other four instead of longer. Finally a tip on withdrawing the cards: it is best for the tip of the right forefinger to enter the envelope first to locate the edges of the long cards and separate them from the two shorts which are not to be withdrawn whilst the thumb goes outside the two required shorts. Whether the shorts infront or behind are required the hand position must be the natural one for the circumstances. This is easily assured by the following simple means. The envelope should be held in the left hand and to the left of the body. If you want the shorts from behind hold the envelope vertically with the opening at the top. If however you want the shorts from the front tilt the envelope to an angle of about 45 degrees so that the opening is pointing leftward away from you. Thanks to Stanton Carlisle for an interesting effect and I hope that he and other readers will like this modification.

We have just heard that Ken Brooke has received an award from the Magic Castle as a tribute to his services to Magic. At the time of writing we know no more. He is certainly worthy of an award and we congratulate him.

We are continuing to gather material for our 'Tribute to Johnny Ramsay' issue but still have space for anything of interest connected with this great close-up performer. Originally we intended to publish in April but we have now decided to produce it later in the year: we want it to be good and do not want to hurry things too much. We intend to post this issue from Johnny Ramsay's home town which should make it of special interest to collectors. Thanks to Bob Read who gave us this idea.

From Bob Ostin further thoughts on his Vampire Living and Dead Test in the Christmas issue: He writes:-

I make a little 'nick' in the staple with a penknife and this can easily be felt afterwards with the ball of the thumb making it possible to present the effect completely sightless.

It may also be possible to cut notches in the chopper blade of the stapler which would correspond with little blobs of Araldite (or something similar) placed on the appropriate staple or staples.

I have tried the knife marking idea but have not as yet experimented with Araldite.

Bob Byrne from California has also sent us an idea for Vampire — he simply shortens the ends of the first staple of the stack. (This can be done without dislodging it). When used this staple can of course be distinguished because the gap between the closed ends of the staple is larger than the others.

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Fundamentals of Magick

Fundamentals of Magick

Magick is the art and practice of moving natural energies to effect needed or wanted change. Magick is natural, there is absolutely nothing supernatural about it. What is taught here are various techniques of magick for beginners. Magick is natural and simple and the techniques to develop abilities should be simple and natural as well. What is taught on this site is not only the basics of magick, but the basics of many things.

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