This is absolutely accurate, its only drawback is that anyone familiar with the Faro-Check (See Faro Shuffle) will get the clue. It is included here not only for completeness, but because it is a good procedure under certain lay audience conditions where a failure would be more embarrassing than one in front of some magicians. Although among laymen you do have a greater lee-way of outs without them realizing that you are covering up a failure.
1. Have the pack thoroughly shuffled by the spectator, then, after it is tabled, have him cut off a packet which, of course, he again shuffles.
2. While the spectator is shuffling you casually pick up the balance and do a Faro Split. This is similar to Figure 13. Next, do a Faro Check in that one portion is merely weaved perfectly, card for card, into the other as in Figure 14. (For more details on the Faro Check, see Chapter 6, The Faro Shuffle.)
3. With the Faro Check you will immediately be able to spot whether both halves are equal as the result will be either a perfect In-Weave or Out-Weave. If the halves are unequal there will be a card or cards that are not included in the Weave. These may be at the top or bottom; however, special care must be paid to when one half is weaved perfectly but one of the halves has a card at the top and bottom of the other half. This means that the one half straddling the other has one more card. A few trials with the Faro Check and you will quickly get the idea.
At any rate, the Faro Check having been made, the cards are quickly unweaved, as if changing your mind about a Faro, and one of the packets dropped to the table. If the Faro Check showed an odd number of cards, remember whether the extra card is in the tabled portion or in the hands.
4. Run-Shuffle the cards in your hand to count them. From here you multiply that amount by two, then either add or subtract the one card if the packets were odd. In other words, if in your hands is the one extra card, then you would multiply, then subtract one from the total. If the extra card is in the tabled portion, then you would add one after doubling the number of cards in your hands. This eventual total is subtracted from 52 to give you the amount of cards being handled by the spectator.
5. As the Faro Check enables you to get the exact position of the spectator's card, after the return of his packet, you can use a definite procedure for bringing the card to the top.
As an example, suppose the card is 15th from the top. Lose two cards by a
cut to bring the selection 13th. Next, do a perfect Faro In-Shuffle to bring the card to the 26th position. Now a perfect cut at 26 and another Faro In-Shuffle brings the selection to the bottom where you note its name. Once the card is known you can disclose it in any way you want even letting the spectator shuffle the cards again before you do disclose his selection.
In the next chapter I will deal with another form of estimation called Natural Estimation. For the rest of this Chapter, let's deal with some effects using Mechanical Estimation.
One of the most obvious conclusions to an estimation procedure is to merely show that you have found the card. This should present no problem if you use any one of the Estimation Methods previously outlined. Naturally, a Double or Triple Lift is used to compensate for any errors. Those who are familiar with the K.M. Move can, of course, end up with the single card after any Double or Multiple Lift.
The next most commonly used methods to terminate an estimation, is spelling to the card. To be absolutely sure of your spell you must decide on an Estimation Method that will not give you more than a one card error; however, by use of Double and Triple Lifts you can deliberately over-estimate two cards to insure the selection not coming out on the letter before the final "S" of any suit.
For example, suppose you have estimated the card as being 20th but it is really 19th. Also suppose the card is the AD which spells with 13 letters including the letter "S". Now according to your estimation of 20 you would lose 7 cards; however, the AT) would come out on the 12th card or on the letter 'D' and the spell would end awkwardly.
Therefore, it is best to set the card at one or two more cards than the estimated spell. In other words, instead of taking off 7 cards from the estimated 20, you would take 6 or 5. As you can see in this case losing 6 cards, the card would spell on the letter 'S' and if you lost 5 cards, then it would be the card after the letter 'S'.
You also can see how if you had decided to slough off only 4 or 3 cards that by riffling the back end of the deck you can quickly spot whether the spelled card in on top, 2nd, 3rd or even 4th. Naturally, by the Lift, either Double, Triple or Quadruple, you can always manage to show the spelled card after the letter "S". Here you have practically a five card lee-way. Using any of the Mechanical Estimation Methods, you should never be off more than one card or two at the most.
In doing the spelling you have the choice of dealing the cards face up and should the card come out on the letter "S", you are automatically concluded otherwise resort to the top of the deck as explained. The other way is to deal the cards face down but glimpsing the card on letter 'S' so that if it is the card the spell can end here; otherwise, the same top of the deck procedure is used.
This next effect has been my favorite for many years and even using Natural Estimation has been successful. (See Chapter 14 Natural Estimation) With Mechanical Estimation you should have no trouble in concluding it successfully. I call it —
The Magic Card
Effect: Performer places, what he calls his Magic card to one side. Later this Magic card locates a selected card.
1. From the deck remove any spot card and place it aside face down without its face being seen as you say, "This is my
Magic Card." Let us say you glimpse that this card is a 4 spot.
2. Use any one of the Mechanical Estimation Methods to get the position of a seleced card from the top of the deck.
3. Assume your estimated position of the selection is at 15 from the top. In a shuffle or cut, lose the top 11 cards to get the selection an estimated 4th from top.
4. Riffle back the end of the deck, with your right thumb, as you say, "Someplace in the pack is the card you merely cut to." During this time glimpse the 3rd card from the top.
5. Pick up the tabled card and say, "This is my magic card. What was your card?" If the card he names should be the one you glimpsed, 3rd from the top, turn your 4 spot face up as you point out that it is a value of four. Now return it face down on top of the deck. Count down to the 4th card and disclose the selection.
6. If it is not the card glimpsed that is named, leave the 4 spot face up on the table as you say, "The Magic Card is a four so 1 will count to the 4th card." Here, deal four cards face up. If the selection comes out on the 4th card, the effect is concluded.
7. If the 4th card is not the selection, then you turn the next or 5th card face up on top of the deck as your repeat the name of the selection. As you can see, you actually can have room for a three card error. You really have to be out of practice with Mechanical Estimation to need that much lee-way. Naturally use of a Multiple Lift will increase the lee-way and assure success; however, strive to get no more than a one card error. This next effect again gives you room for error and still a successful termination. Call it —
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Magick is the art and practice of moving natural energies to effect needed or wanted change. Magick is natural, there is absolutely nothing supernatural about it. What is taught here are various techniques of magick for beginners. Magick is natural and simple and the techniques to develop abilities should be simple and natural as well. What is taught on this site is not only the basics of magick, but the basics of many things.