1. Hold the pack in the Mechanics Grip. The left forefinger is at position 1 around the upper end of the deck. The left thumb is angled towards the top end of the deck where its tip touches the left forefinger. The left 2nd 3rd and 4th fingertips are against the side of the deck. The position is shown in Figure 94.
2. The left thumb now arcs over the top card, as shown in Figure 95, just enough to expose the second card at the upper right corner.
3. The right forefinger is now extended and its tip placed deliberately onto the upper right corner of the second card which it immediately lifts up, away from deck and then forces the tip of the right forefinger under the corner of this second card as seen in Figure 96. Actually, the right thumb almost simultaneously comes in contact with the corner of the second card as in Figure 97.
4. With a firm grip on the second card, with right thumb and 1st finger, the card is dealt off to the table as the left thumb pulls back the top card flush with the deck. A repetition of these movements will set you for succeeding second deals.
5. Whenever the top card only is needed the identical action, of lifting up the corner of the card, is made except this time on the top card only; The right 1st finger and thumb deal the card to the table.
6. Remember that the same lifting up action is made on the top or second deal. Also the two upper corners of the top and second card, are fairly close together during the Hit and Lift action so it is impossible to tell whether a top or second card is dealt. Adding the Principle of the Wrist Turn, explained further on in this book, enables you to do this deal under close scrutiny.
7. This is a slow type deal so its use will have to fit the occasion or an occasion found for its use.
This variation can be used as a straight out face down deal; however, it will be described as a form of "Hit Stud Deal" which is visually very deceptive.
1. Hold the deck in the Mechanics Grip with the left forefinger at position 1 around the upper end of the deck. The left 2nd, 3rd and 4th fingers are extended and not pressed against the side of the deck. The left thumb bevels the pack then takes its position across the deck, its tip pointing towards the upper right corner of pack but not touching it, As shown in Figure 98. The left thumb maintains a firm pressure on the deck.
2. The right hand, forefinger extended and the other three fingers curled in towards the palm, comes towards the pack. The ball of the right forefinger "hits" the side of the deck, at a point just below the left 4th finger, to thus engage two cards quickly which are immediately lifted as one. This is shown in Figure 99.
3. Immediately as the two cards are lifted, the right forefinger slides up to center of the cards, then moves in under them up to the first joint of the forefinger. Also the right second finger straightens out so it lies across the top of the card while the right thumb comes down to contact the top card near its edge. The position at this point is as in Figure 100.
4. The right forefinger digs in and presses upwards on the face of the second card at the same time the right hand starts to move to the right.
5. As the right hand moves the second card out, the right thumb and back of the second right finger will automatically come in contact with it to insure a firm grip for the next action.
6. As soon as the 2nd card starts to move out, the right second finger presses down on top of this card while right 1st finger presses upwards on its face. This causes the card to bend downwards, at its back end, as it moves out of the pack per Figure 101.
1. Continuing the pressure of the right 1st and 2nd fingers will cause the card to pivot face up. The right thumb simultaneously moves from the back of the card onto its face. As a result the second card ends face up in the right hand held as in Figure 102.
8. The right hand now tosses its card face up to the table, then comes back for a repeat of this Hit Stud Deal. There is a slight upward movement of the right hand as the second card is pulled out and turned face up. This upward movement aids in the illusion of the top card having been taken as well as the turning of the card face up.
9. The top card deal is handled the same way but please note that the noise of the top card deal must conform to that of the second deal. Actually work to make the second deal a soft one to conform to that of the actual noise made by taking the top card in the same manner.
10. The adding of the Wrist Turn Principle to the Stud Deal, or the straight face down deal, will add greatly to its visual deceptiveness.
For magical use the Hit Deals will be found of great value especially when some unthinking host hands you a dirty, old, sticky deck to entertain his friends.
D'Amico One Hand Second
Over fifteen years ago Carmen D'Amico set the card men agog with an unusual and most visually deceptive one hand second deal. He first did it for me but
Pave the first explanation of it to rancis Finneran who at that time was just out of the army and passing through Chicago.
Later, Francis went back east and extolled this one hand second deal to several card men among them being Dai Vernon and Doc Daley neither of which had ever seen or heard of anything like it before and in fact, weren't quite sure that perhaps Finneran wasn't just exaggerating a bit. It wasn't until Vernon met D Amico personally that he actually saw how visually deceptive the action really was.
Ill never forget the time when Charlie Miller saw D Amico do this for the first time. Of course, he had heard of it from Vernon and later read it in Buckley's Card Control but he had never actually seen it done well until D'Amico demonstrated it. Miller got up and walked around to several sides of Carmen as he requested him to do it again and again. All he could do was shake his head and say, "It doesn't seem possible but you can't see it."
The D'Amico One Hand Second Deal and One Hand Double Lift are closely allied, one stemming as a result of the other. When Carmen met Arthur Buckley he demonstrated both moves for him. Needless to say, he was impressed to the point of asking permission to include the moves in his book Card Control. D'Amico then said he could have several things of his but he did not want his One Hand Second published. Buckley must have wanted the move pretty badly because in the 1st edition he put in the One Hand Second, then to justify its inclusion without permission he claimed it was an old Black-Jack, or 21, method of Second Dealing. This was, of course, not true and when D'Amico saw his pet sleight in print, with no credit to boot, there was quite a scene at the Magic Round Table in Chicago.
At any rate with Buckley's second edition of Card Control he mentioned D'Amico's name in connection with the Deal but actually gave him no more credit than in his first edition by stating that D'Amico claims to have invented it.
Anyone conversant with semantics can realize that this could mean the same as that he hadn't invented it; therefore, let me assure all cardicians that this particular One Hand Second Deal is Carmen D'Amico's invention and that no one, Vernon, Miller, Finneran, etc., had ever seen or heard of anything like it previously.
Over the years I have seen several card men attempt the D'Amico One Hand Second and yet never get the same illusion as Carmen did. One day I mentioned this to Carmen and asked him to do it for me over and over until I could properly analyze the action.
Here, for the first time is the correct technique broken down into several major steps that will enable you to get as fine a result as that obtained by D'Amico.
1. Hold the pack in the
Grip position but with the left thumb at the side of the upper left corner in readiness for a thumb count.
2. Release two cards, from under the left thumb at the side of the upper left corner. Next press down with the left thumb on its corner of the pack. The left 2nd, 3rd and 4th fingers press down on top of the right side of the deck. This causes the two thumb counted cards to separate from the deck at the left side as in Figure 103.
3. The left thumb moves in under the top two cards as in Figure 104, a top view. The left 2nd, 3rd and 4th fingers keep pressing down on the right side of
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